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United by an enormously ancient and
eventful geological history, the
Klamath- Siskiyou is divided by elevation, climate, and soils into a
dazzling
mosaic of natural worlds.
In the Beginning: Geology.
The geological map of Oregon is a
beautiful thing, with sweeps of
color denoting the various types of rock making up the state. In most
parts of
the map, the pattern is fairly broad-brush, but one’s eyes
are irresistibly
drawn to the southwest corner, where the sweeping strokes break down
into an
fractured kaleidoscope of fiendish complexity. In the words of one
despairing
geologist, the mountains of the Klamath-Siskiyou are "a geological
nightmare, a chaotic mixture of a wide variety of rocks originally
formed at
different times, in different ways, and at widely separated places all
swept
together into a hopelessly confused heap." The region owes much of its
biological wealth to the age and complexity of its rocks.
The oldest rocks in the Siskiyous
are thought to be about 425 million years
old; that is, older than the emergence of life on land. Most of the
rocks of
the region are at least 200 million years old, and originated as
offshore
sediments that were repeatedly uplifted, folded, and mixed with
granitic rock
from the ancient seafloor bedrock. Intruding into this mixture are
large blocks
of rocks formed under extreme pressure in the earth’s
interior: peridotite and
serpentine. Because of the manner of their formation, these rocks are
deficient
in some minerals (including calcium and potassium) and are heavily
laden with
others (especially magnesium and iron). One of the largest blocks of
such rocks
in the world lies west of Cave Junction, and smaller outcrops occur
throughout
the Klamath-Siskiyou.
The strange mineral composition of
serpentine and peridotite means that
soils derived from them will be very inhospitable to plant life. On a
landscape
scale, the open Jeffrey pine woodlands northwest of Cave Junction
reveal the
struggle of trees to grow on serpentine, a struggle that has been won
in the
unique Redrock Rainforest of the Kalmiopsis Wilderness. On a more
intimate
scale, the tiny fens that dot Eight Dollar Mountain
and other serpentine mountains throughout the region are
treasure-troves of
rare orchids, insect-eating cobra plants, and other unique species that
have
evolved the ability to survive where their more widespread rivals
cannot. Our
region is famous to botanists around the world for the amazing
diversity of its
serpentine-adapted plants. More generally, the wide array of soil types
resulting from the mountains’ complex history provide plenty
of opportunities
for other plant species to put down roots in their favorite ground.
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