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Three
places moved me most deeply. First was the Box O, a former
ranch
that now forms part of the eastern flank of the monument. It
nestles in a beautiful shallow valley, through which runs an
ever-flowing, life-giving stream, Jenny Creek. It is one of
my
favorite places on earth.
On that September day, this is how it struck me:
September
Tawny beauty reclines
Between the autumn hills
Supple, subtle, variegated
The meadow a dozing lion
Heedless and mighty
Sleeping off the summer’s feast
For many years this land was a working ranch; for the past ten years,
there has been no grazing and much active restoration by the Bureau of
Land Management. The human history of the place remains in
the
cabins and fences and barns, in the alien grasses and star thistle in
the meadows, in the young ponderosa pines planted by BLM, now
flourishing along the stream, and in the big stumps of their
grandfathers, cut by the pioneers.
I love pristine wilderness, but I love this place too, for all it has
been through, for how beautiful it remains, for all the dreams that
have filled it and have passed on. Inside a small cabin a
stone’s throw from Jenny Creek, now groaning under the weight
of
a great dead pine that has collapsed upon it, these words are written
on the wall:
“This
cabin was built in 1983 by Rocky and Suzy Courtney.
We
came to this country broke but with a Dream!!
To
build a beautiful herd of cows!! WE DID IT!!"
Cows play no part in my own dreams, and in fact I’m not fond
of
those beasts at all. I’m very glad that they are
now longer
trampling and fouling Jenny Creek. And yet, I felt a strong
human
connection to the Courtneys when I read their inscription. I
recognize their emotion, and I respect their dream. It was
rooted
in the land. Standing at the end of this valley, looking over
the
spreading meadows, even I can imagine how good it must look to a lover
of cows. As good, perhaps, as it looks to me, a lover of
trout,
of elk, of orioles and otters.
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